Heliotrope Absolute
Heliotropium peruvianum · Boraginaceae
Odour
Strongly herbaceous, but also intensely sweet odor. Only upon dilution to about 1% or weaker, the odor seems to resemble that of heliotrope flowers. The flowers emit a very sweet odor reminiscent of bitter almond oil, yet more heavy floral and with a distinct fruity undertone.
Blends well with
Notes
Never became a common or inexpensive perfume material, probably due to availability of low-cost synthetic heliotropine. Likely to disappear from the perfume market within the next decade or two. Known in the U.S.A. as 'cherry-pie blossom'.
Full Arctander text
#### Heliotrope Absolute.
Originated in Peru and introduced in Europe more than 200 years ago, the **Heliotropium**** ****Peruvianum **is now cultivated commonly in the south of Europe. Knowing it from Danish greenhouses as a tender and tiny, unimpressive ornamental plant, the author was quite astonished to find a shrublike plant, the size of a sunflower, when he first met the heliotrope in the south of France in the 1930's. The name **Heliotrope **actually means the same as "sunflower" (for which the French name is "tournesol"). They both "follow the sun"
**Heliotropium**** ****Peruvianum**** **(also known as **Heliotropium**** ****Arborescens**) has a small clusters of grayish-purple or violet-colored flowers which emit a very sweet odor reminiscent of bitter almond oil, yet more heavy floral and with a distinct fruity undertone. The plant is known in the U.S.A. as "cherry-pie blossom". To the chemist, the odor of the flower may remind of heliotropine, but this note is not too obvious. The perfumer will find this note well concealed in heavy-sweet notes of the lilac-, hawthorne-, or carnation type.
**Absolute of Heliotrope **has never become a common perfume material, nor an inexpensive one, probably on account of heliotropine being available as a low-cost synthetic chemical. The absolute is occasionally produced in the south of France from the flowering tops of the plant by hot extraction with a fixed oil (digestion method). Heliotrope absolute is a semi-solid greenish-brown or dark brown mass of strongly herbaceous, but also intensely sweet odor.
Only upon dilution to about I or weaker, the odor seems to resemble that of heliotrope flowers. The absolute blends well into violet, mimosa, cassie and other florals, but it does not offer any significant advantages over other natural or synthetic products in the same odor group. It is very likely, therefore, that Heliotrope Absolute will completely disappear from the perfume market within the next decade or two.